Seasonal Desserts

Buon Natale! Zelten Trentino

2011-12-07T21:27:00.000-08:00

This rich fruitcake is traditionally made during the holidays in the Trentino Alto Adige, the region that borders Italy with Austria and Switzerland. “Zelten” is the German word for “rarely”. It was called Zelten because the cake was only eaten in Christmas. It is studded with nuts and dried fruits and flavored with spices and grappa or rum. You can notice the German influence in the region from the first bite of this cake. This influence is also noticed in the architecture, the manners, the bilingual road signs, and the cuisine. Every family keeps their own recipe of Zelten in secret, but all of them include dried fruits, nuts, cinnamon and liquor. This is my interpretation of this wonderful cake.

16 ounces mixed dried fruit (dates, apricots, raisins, etc)
8 ounces nuts (blanched almonds, walnuts, etc)
¾ cup plus dark rum or grappa
¼ cup orange juice
Zest of 1 orange
3 eggs
¾ cup brown sugar
2 1/4 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon ginger
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3 ounces unsalted butter, melted
1 cup water

Topping

1 cup mixed nuts and fruit

Glaze

½ cup apricot preserve
2 tablespoon water

Cut the dried fruits and nuts in ¼ inch pieces.

In a large bowl, combine fruits and nuts and toss with rum (or grappa), orange juice and zest. The mixture may be left covered several days at this point.

When you’re ready to bake the cake set a rack at the middle level of the oven and preheat to 325 degrees. Butter or spray with a nonstick vegetable spray an 9 inch spring form pan with a removable bottom. Line the bottom of the pan with buttered parchment paper. Mix flour with baking powder, salt and spices and set aside. Whisk eggs and sugar until white and creamy.

Add the melted butter and mix until combined. Beat in half of the flour mixture and half of the water. Continue alternating flour mixture and water until all is combined.

Pour batter over fruit and nuts and fold thoroughly together.

Press batter into the prepared pan. If desired, decorate the top of the cake with nuts and dried fruits.

Bake until firm and no longer wet, about 1 hour, being careful not to overbake.

To make the glaze, heat the apricot preserve and water in a small saucepan over medium heat until liquid (melted). Remove from heat and strain the jam through a fine strainer to remove any fruit lumps. Let cool until it is only slightly warm and then glaze the cake, using a pastry brush

Enjoy! Buon Natale!

Caramelized Butternut Squash

2011-10-09T17:46:00.000-07:00

Winter squash are starting to show up on the market with their distinctive colors, shapes and size. Acorn, Pumpkin, Delicata, Kabocha and Butternut are a few of the many varieties available. While each variety differs in shape, color, and flavor, they all share some common characteristics. They all are picked after they have matured and their skins have hardened, enabling them to be stored for long periods (between one week and six months). Their flesh is sweet in flavor and it continues to sweeten off the vine. Additionally, all have seeds in their hollow inner cavities. Because of those common characteristics they can be used interchangeably in most recipes. I like to use a combination of winter squash in soups, pies, and many other recipes to develop a more complex flavor.

When buying winter squash choose the ones that are firm, heavy for their size, and that have hard, tough skin with no cuts, punctures, sunken spots or mold. A tender rind indicates immaturity, which is undesirable in winter squash.

Winter squash can be kept for up to three months in a cool, dry place. They don’t need to be refrigerated unless they have been cut open.

Butternut squash is one of my favorite varieties of winter squash. It has the shaped of a large pear with creamy colored skin. Its flesh is deep orange and its distinctive butterscotch flavor is enjoyable in savory and sweet dishes.

Caramelized Butternut Squash

This recipe can be enjoyed warm or cold as a side dish or as component for salads, cooked grain or pastas or as a dessert with ice cream or sweet cream.

• 1 medium butternut squash (2 or 3 pounds total)
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoon maple syrup
• 1 teaspoons sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Cut off and discard the ends of each butternut squash. Peel the squash, cut them in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds.

Cut the squash into 1 1/4 to 1 1/2-inch cubes and place them on a baking sheet. Add the olive oil, maple syrup, salt, and pepper.

With clean hands, toss all the ingredients together and spread in a single layer on the baking sheet.

Roast for 45 to 55 minutes, until the squash is tender and the glaze begins to caramelize.

While roasting, turn the squash a few times with a spatula, to be sure it browns evenly. Taste for seasonings and serve hot.

Poached Peaches and Bellini

2011-08-07T11:48:00.000-07:00

Juicy peaches are one of the simplest pleasures that Summer can brings. They are wonderful finger fruit, but they are also a great addition to almost any dish. A simple green salad can become luscious with some roasted peaches; a cheese plate is more inviting with the addition of the fruit; even a drink can become more exciting with a bit of peach puree. In this issue I wanted to share with you two very easy peach recipes to enjoy their refreshing flavor during the hot summer days: Poached Peaches in Prosecco (Italian version of champagne); and the Bellini, a famous Italian cocktail made with Prosseco and peach puree. The Bellini, was invented by Giuseppe Cipriani, the owner of Harry's Bar in Venice. Cipriani named his cocktail after the famous Italian painter Giovanni Bellini. He thought the color of the drink matched the color Bellini used in one of his famous paintings for a saint's toga. The Bellini has become one of the most famous and popular of all sparkling wine cocktails in Italy.

When buying peaches, choose plump, firm fruit with orange-yellow color. Avoid green fruit which will not ripen.

When the fruit feels soft to the touch it is fully ripe and should be eaten as soon as possible. If you are not going to consume immediately, you can store ripe peaches in the refrigerator where they may keep for up to a week. However, hard peaches should be stored at room temperature in paper bag to let them ripen for a day or two.

Poach Peaches
• 6 firm yellow- or white-fleshed peaches, cut in half
• 1 bottle Prosecco
• 2 cups water
• 3/4 cup sugar

In a saucepan large enough to hold all the peaches in a single layer, combine the Prosecco, the water, and the sugar. Bring it to a boil.

Lower the heat and add the peaches and simmer until barely tender, around 5-10 minutes, depending upon their ripeness.

Transfer the peaches and their cooking liquid to a deep glass bowl (the peaches should be completely covered by the liquid) and let cool to room temperature.

You don’t have to take the skin off, but if the peaches are ripe the skin would fall off easily. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 days or for up to 3 days. Serve them cold with some of the juice from the syrup.

Bellini
• 1 bottle of Prosecco

• About 3 poached peaches in Prosecco from the above recipe

Take the skin off from the fruit. Puree the fruit.

For each serving, pour 3 to 4 tablespoons of the fruit puree into a Champagne glass.

Slowly pour enough Prosecco into the glass to fill. Gently stir to blend and serve.

Torta di Ricotta e Albiccoche (Ricotta Apricot Cake)

2011-07-03T12:22:00.000-07:00

In this issue, I wanted to share with you a recipe for Torta di Ricotta e Albiccoche (Ricotta Apricot Cake). Moist, lemony and topped with fresh apricot, this simple rustic cake gets much of its delicate flavor from the unexpected addition of ricotta and fresh apricots.

Although dried or preserved apricots can be found all year round, their best flavor comes out when they are fresh, ripe and in season, from late spring through the summer. Because their season is so short, I try to make the most out of fresh apricot when I see them on the market. Their tart sweet flavor can be enjoyed in sweet and savory dishes. For a luscious dessert I like to incorporate them in cakes, tarts and pies. I also like to make chutneys, preserve or marmalade to enjoy their flavor all year round.

When choosing apricots always look for fruits that are plump and heavy for their size. They should have a deep orange color with no trace of green. They should also be firm, giving only a little, and have a delicate aroma. Store them at room temperature. Apricots won't ripen once off the tree, so be sure to pick plump, fragrant fruits.

Torta di Ricotta e Albiccoche (Ricotta Apricot Cake)
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 3 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup sugar
• zest of 2 lemons
• 4 large eggs, at room temperature
• 250 grams ricotta, drained
• About 5 apricots, washed, divided in half and stone removed
• 2 tablespoon extra sugar

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9-inch round cake or springform pan and place a piece of parchment paper in the bottom.

In a small bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

Place the eggs, zests and the sugar in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment.

Beat on medium-high speed until the mixture is pale and thick, about 3 minutes.

Set the mixer to its lowest speed and beat in the ricotta.

Add the sifted dry ingredients, beating only until they are incorporated.

Pour about the batter into the prepared pan. Place as many apricots as you can fit on top of the batter and sprinkle them with the extra sugar.

Bake the cake for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and set on a cooling rack for 15 minutes.

Carefully remove the sides of the springform pan and let the cake cool for at least 30 minutes. Serve the cake warm or at room temperature with whipped cream or ice cream.

Pane Rustico senza Impasto (No-Knead Rustic Bread)

2011-05-01T05:56:00.000-07:00

One of the things I miss the most from my childhood is going to the neighborhood’s bakery to get a flavorful and still warm loaf of bread right out of the oven. The fresh baked fragrance was so hard to resist that the bread was half gone by the time I arrived home. And I lived just one block away from the bakery! Nowadays, the closest place I can get bread is the supermarket. And even though it is supposed to be fresh and it is conveniently packaged in paper bags, it feels a little dry and no aroma is coming from the bag. This is probably why I prefer to make my own bread at home. And you are going to be able to do it yourself too with this recipe for Pane Rustico (Rustic Bread). This Italian country bread recipe doesn’t require too much work but the results are very satisfying. It was inspired by the “no-knead” method promoted by Jim Lahey from Sullivan Street Bakery. The only secret to a moist and flavorful loaf is the long and slow rising.

600 grams of bread flour (5 cups)
450 ml of water (2 cup)
1 tablespoon honey
10 grams salt (approximately 2 teaspoon)
1 gram dry yeast (approximately 1 teaspoon)

Heat ¼ cup of the water to 110 F. Pour the yeast into a medium-size mixing bowl and stir in the warm water with a spoon.

Add honey and stir. Add flour, the rest of the water and salt.

Use a spoon or your hand to mix everything together. The dough should be shaggy and sticky. I used a Danish Dough Whisk that a friend of mine, Rieko Moreno, gave me as a present. I was amazed how easy this tool was to use in my wet dough, and to clean too.

Although any spoon would do the work, this tool definitively made things easier for me.

Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature (70 F) for at least 18 hours. The dough is going to be ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles and it has more than doubled in size.

Uncover the bowl and fold the dough three or four times with a spoon or a spatula (just to punch down the dough).

Place the dough on the center of a floured sheet pan (or onto a piece of lightly floured parchment paper if you want to bake it on a pizza stone) . The dough will be very wet and sticky.

Lightly sprinkle flour on top of the dough and form it in a rectangular shape (like a Ciabatta) with your hands.

Don’t worry if it doesn’t look perfect. It should look rustic. Sprinkle some more flour and cover the dough with plastic wrap. Let it rise until it doubles in size (about 2 hours)

Place the bread into a 450 F preheated oven (I slide the parchment paper with the dough directly on top of a preheated pizza stone). Check on your bread after about 25 minutes. Once it’s golden brown, take it out of the oven and set it aside to cool on a rack for at least 10 minutes.

You can cut into it immediately but if you do it’ll collapse and won’t look as pretty. Pane Rustico is great for sandwiches but, like most breads, it’s absolutely delicious right out of the oven.

Schiacciata a la Fiorentina (Mardi Grass Cake from Florence)

2011-02-26T00:30:00.000-08:00

Schiacciata (“skya-CHA-ta“) means “squashed” and for Florentines it refers to a flatbread that is spread and cooked in a rectangular pan. It is what the rest of Italians call focaccia. And like focaccia, there are several sweet and savory versions of schiacciata topped with herbs, onions, olives, hams, etc. But “Schiacciata alla Fiorentina” is a totally different specialty that has nothing to do with the focaccia you may know. Instead, it is fragrant and airy sweet yeasted bread that is popular in Florence on the days leading up to Easter, especially during Carnevale. The cake is typically baked in a rectangular mold and then decorated with powdered sugar with the silhouette of lily flour (fleur-de-lis), the symbol of the city. It is simple, but an elegant cake that can be enjoyed alone or filled with whipped cream, pastry cream or any filling of your choice.

500 grams (4 cups; 17.64 oz) bread flour
1 tablespoon active dry yeast
1 cup water
1/2 tsp salt
2 Large eggs at room temperature
250 grams granulated sugar (1 cup; 8 oz)
3/4 cup extra-virgin extra virgin olive oil plus 2 tablespoon for the pan
Grated zest and juice of one orange
3 tablespoon powdered sugar (to 4 tablespoon) for garnish
Cocoa powder for decoration

Oil a 9-inches by 12-inches pan with olive oil. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper.

To make the biga:

Sprinkle yeast over ¼ cup of warm water (110°F) in a large stand mixer bowl; let stand until foamy (about 5 minutes).

Add the rest of the water and 325 grams (2 ½ cup) of flour. Mix in stand mixer until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl and the dough is soft, shiny and elastic (7-10 minutes).

Let it rest, covered with plastic wrap, until it doubles in size (about 1 to 2 hours).

To make the cake:

Beat the eggs with the sugar until yellow and creamy.

Add the zest and juice from an orange. Add the olive oil little by little and continue mixing until everything is combined. Add the rest of the flour and the salt and continue mixing until the flour is incorporated scraping down the sides of the bowl.

Add the biga and mix everything together until fully incorporated.

This can take between 10 to 15 minutes. It should form a smooth, yet loose ball.

Scrape mix into the oiled baking pan.

With your fingers, even the dough to a uniform thickness, cover with a plastic wrap and let it rise until it doubles its size (3 – 4 hours).

Bake for 30 – 35 minutes at 375° F. Let it cool. Cover the cake with powdered sugar.

For decoration, you may cut out a stencil of a Florentine lily and lay it on the cake before its sugar coating for a traditional and very handsome design.

Enjoy!

Cedar Gable Inn in Napa

2011-01-30T20:23:00.000-08:00

Last year I was invited to teach a holiday cookie class at Cedar Gable Inn, a luxurious 10,000 square foot Napa Valley Bed and Breakfast mansion. I had one of the most memorable teaching experiences there and I wanted to share with you. Susie and Ken, the owners, made me feel welcome from the beginning and the students were very engaged and friendly. They seemed to know Susie from long time ago. I felt the same way, even if I had talked to her just twice before. If you are looking for a romantic retreat in Napa I highly recommend Cedar Gable Inn. It has a great location within walking distance to popular restaurants and shops in downtown Napa. The inn is very nicely decorated in Victorian style. But what really make the Cedar Gables memorable is the hospitality of the Ken and Susie. They really do a great job of making you feel at home. I can’t say enough good things about them.

Those are some pictures of my experience teaching at Cedar Gable Inn

Susie in the back

Panforte

Cranberry Biscotti

Whole Wheat Olive Oil Bread

2011-01-15T14:14:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year! I hope you enjoyed the holidays and are ready to face 2011 with a lot of energy and enthusiasm. If you are like me, your resolutions for this year include eating healthier and exercising more. Eating healthy can be very easy when the food you eat is not only nutritious, but also tasty and flavorful. Just by including more whole grains in your diet and using extra virgin olive oil, instead of butter or margarine, you can achieve that. In this issue, I wanted to share with you one of my favorite healthy bread recipes: whole wheat olive oil bread. This bread is slightly more than 60% whole wheat and with the addition of olive oil it is so delightful that I can eat it every day with nothing else.

Ingredients (1 oz = 0.2835 grams)

0.6 oz dried yeast

14 oz water

16 oz whole wheat flour (King Arthur)

10 oz bread flour (King Arthur)

2 oz honey

½ oz salt

2 oz olive oil

Procedure

Warm 3 oz of water to 110 F. Dissolve the dry yeast into the water and let it rest for 5 minutes.

Add the rest of the water and the two flours and mix until blend the flour is well-moistened and the dough comes together.

Add the honey, salt and oil and continue kneading until the dough becomes elastic (approximately 12 minutes).

Put the dough into a lightly oiled bowl

cover with plastic wrap and allow it to rest until it doubles it size (approximately 2 hours) or overnight in the refrigerator

Turn the dough out, this time on a lightly oiled surface. Divide in half. Lightly knead and form the dough into loaves (see below) and place on a floured baking sheet or into two oiled loaf pans.

Cover again and allow them to rise for an hour more. At this point you can preheat the oven to 400F.

When the loaves have risen, make incisions on top with a serrated knife and brush the top with cold water.

Bake for about 45 minutes or until the crust is nice brown and the internal temperature of the bread is 180F (I insert a kitchen thermometer in the middle of the bread).

I put a bowls with water in the rack below the bread to create steam (good for the crust).

Enjoy!

Chocolate Cranberry Biscotti

2010-12-06T10:33:00.000-08:00

These biscotti are not traditional at all, but they sure are delicious, easy to make, and keep for a long time in an airtight container. They are also perfect for packing and sure to sweeten any recipient’s holiday. Baker's ammonia will make them crisp, but it may be substituted with baking powder.

- 14 ounces (31/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons) unbleached all-purpose flour

- 2 ounces (1/2 cup minus 1/2 tablespoon) Dutch process cocoa

- 2 teaspoons baker's ammonia, substitute baking powder

-Pinch salt

- 3 large eggs

- 1 1/4 cups sugar

- ¼ cup olive oil

- The zest of one orange

- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

- 1 cup dried cranberry

- 1/2 cup sugar, for sprinkling

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or silpat. In a medium bowl, whisk together all the dry ingredients except the sugar. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whisk the eggs and the sugar until light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes.

Slowly whisk in the olive oil, zests and vanilla extract and beat lightly to combine. Fold in the dry ingredients until combined (I used the paddle attachment on this step).

Fold in the cranberries. Form the dough into two logs, each about 1 1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick.

Arrange the logs on the prepared baking sheet with at least 2 inches of space in between. Sprinkle the dough with sugar. Bake for 30 minutes or until lightly browned but still soft in the center. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F. Using a surrated knife, slice the logs diagonally into 1/2-inch thick slices.

Arrange the slices upright onto the baking sheets. Bake again for about 20 minutes, or until crispy.

Store in an airtight container or package them for gift giving.

Focaccia di Recco

2010-10-17T22:06:00.000-07:00

In the small town of Recco, on the Ligurian coast, the Focaccia col Formaggio, also called Focaccia di Recco (Cheese Focaccia) is a source of local pride. Different from the typical thick focaccia you may have tried in an Italian restaurant, the Focaccia di Recco is a very thin double crust bread enriched with melted fresh cheese. What makes this focaccia so special is the creamy local fresh soft cheese referred to as formaggio di Recco, very similar to crescenza or stracchino cheese.

The fame of the Focaccia di Recco has attracted people around the world making Recco the gastronomic capital of Liguria. The origin of this delicious bread dates back to the XVI to the XVII century, when the city of Recco was the target for Saracen’s attack. During that time, the population of Recco took refuge in the hills and survived from the only foods that were available - olive oil, flour, and the soft local cheese. The ancient Recchesi (people from Recco) would make focaccia dough from flour, water and olive oil. No leavening agent was used. Instead, the focaccia was shaped into two thin layers of dough filled with fresh cheese and cooked on a slate stone that was heated on the coal, cooked within minutes. That’s how the Focaccia di Recco was created.

This is my recipe for Foccacia col Formaggio. The only secret ingredient is the cheese: crescenza or stracchino. In the SF Bay Area I found theses cheeses at Draegers in Blackhawk (thanks to the charming cheese lady that looked it up for me)

Focaccia col Formaggio (Focaccia di Recco)

• 2 cups (220 grams, 7.8 oz) all purpose flour
• 1 pound Crescenza cheese, or Stracchino cheese
• 1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (plus more to brush the bread)
• water as needed (approximately ½ cup)
• salt to taste

Combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if you want to knead it by hand) and mix together. Add the olive oil and the water, just a little bit at a time, and mix on the stand mixer with a dough hook on low speed until the dough starts to form into a ball.

Increase the speed to medium, and let it knead until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.

Remove the bowl from the mixer and cover the dough with plastic wrap. Let the dough sit for 1 hour at room temperature. Divide the dough into two equal parts and roll out the dough as thin as possible, almost transparent.

Once you have rolled out both pieces of dough, begin assembling the Focaccia di Recco. Oil a 1/2 sheet pan with extra virgin olive oil. Place one layer of dough on the bottom of the pan.

Add the Cresenza or Stracchino cheese in pieces using your hands or a spoon. Cover the cheese with the second sheet of dough. Seal the edges by pinching the dough.

Pinch holes with a fork into the top layer of dough above the cheese so that the steam can come out during cooking. Brush with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle salt all over the top of the bread.

Bake in a very hot oven (400/450°F) for about 5 or 6 minutes, or until golden. When the focaccia is done, remove it from the oven and let it cool. Cut it and serve as an appetizer.

Fig Crostata with Goat Cheese

2010-09-09T03:17:00.000-07:00

1 cup flour
¼ teaspoon baking powder
½ cup sugar
Pinch salt
Zest of 1 orange
½ cup butter (1 stick)
1 tablespoon milk
1 ½ pint fresh Black Mission figs (about 1 ½ pounds)
3 tablespoon fig preserve (or apricot preserve)
1/4 cup sugar

To make the crust, mix the flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and orange zest in a mixing bowl. Cut in the butter until it's the consistency of small meal. Add the milk into the bowl. Quickly knead the dough until it comes together.

Wrap the dough and allow it to rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour (better overnight).
Roll out the dough into a rough rectangle and transfer it to a baking sheet.

Cover the pastry with plastic wrap and allow it to rest in the fridge for 30mins. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Bake the crust until is golden brown.

Cut off the tough ends from the stems of the fig. Slice the figs in half. Spread the preserve in a thin layer on the top of the pastry crust. Arrange the fig slices in 4 or 5 rows over the pastry like cards in solitaire.

Allow it to rest in the fridge until you are ready to bake.

Preheat the oven to 350F. Sprinkle the extra sugar over the figs and then bake the tart for about 30mins or until the pastry is crisp and the figs are soft and juicing a little.

Serve at room temperature with goat cheese.

Gelato di Nutella (Nutella Ice Cream)

2010-08-03T22:57:00.000-07:00

It has been only three weeks since I came back from my trip to Italy and I already miss it. I specially miss spending time with my younger sister Antonella and her baby girl, Giulia. I also miss swimming in the warm water of the Adriatic Sea, and of course, the gelatos. Although I will have to wait for my next trip to Italy to enjoy my family’s company, I can get Italian gelatos right away, from my kitchen. In this issue I am going to show you how to make gelato with one of my favorite flavors: Nutella.

For those not familiar with it, Nutella is a creamy chocolate hazelnut spread that Italians (especially kids) enjoy with breads as a breakfast or an afternoon snack. It is for Italians what peanut butter is for Americans, although you can easily eat the whole jar with a spoon. It is also very popular in cakes, tarts and other desserts. But the best way to enjoy it during the warm summer month is in gelato.

- 1 ½ cups whole milk
- ½ cup cream
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 4 egg yolks
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 4 ounces (1/4 cup) Nutella
- 1 teaspoon Frangelico

Pour the milk, cream and salt in a saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring constantly. When the mixture is hot enough to release steam, remove from the heat. Don’t let it boil!

Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl until thick and lemon-colored.

Pour the hot milk mixture a little at a time into the egg mixture, whisking constantly until well blended. Once half the milk mixture is in, you can begin to pour a little faster until all the hot milk mixture is incorporated.

Add the Nutella and whisk until it is all mixed in evenly.

Strain into the saucepan and put the mixture over low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until dense and creamy, about 3 minutes.

Strain into a bowl and add the frangelico. Cool to room temperature, covered with plastic wrap pressed directly to the surface.

If you have an ice-cream maker, freeze the nutella mixture in it according to manufacturer’s directions.

If not, set the bowl on the freezer shelf and let it sit, stirring occasionally, until frozen but still soft and moldable, from 2 to 3 hours. (You can “still-freeze” the ice cream like this up to a day in advance. Let it sit at room temperature until softened (about 10 minutes) before serving it.

Enjoy!

You can keep it in the freezer for a few days before ice crystals will begin to form.

Rhubarb Crisp

2010-06-12T23:10:00.000-07:00

Crisp is one of my favorite American desserts. I learned how to make it during my time working at Chez Panisse. I love the combination of textures between the soft fruit filling and the crispy topping. I also like how simple it is to put together with almost any kind fruit. The only secret to make it perfect is to use local fruits that are fresh and in season. This is my adaptation of a recipe by Lindsey Remolif Shere (former chez Panisse's pastry chef). I added orange zests, orange juice and brandy because I like how those flavors pair with rhubarb and intensify its flavor. I also substitute some of the sugar of the topping with brown sugar for a softer texture. I hope you enjoy it!

Rhubarb Crisp

Filling

- 2 pounds rhubarb

- 1 cup sugar

- 3 tablespoons flour
- zest anf juice of one orange
- 1 tablespoon brandy
- pinch salt

Topping

- 1/2 cup walnuts
- 1 cup all purpose flour
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 2 tablespoon brown sugar

- 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

- 1/3 cup butter, softened

- pinch salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Trim rhubarb and cut into 1/2" pieces. Place in a large mixing bowl and stir in sugar and flour. Add the orange juce, zests, brandy and salt and mix everything together. Let stand while you make the topping.

Spread the walnuts out on a baking tray and toast in the oven for about 10 minutes. Let them cool, and chop finely. In a mixing bowl, combine nuts, flour, sugars, cinnamon and salt. Cut the butter into small pieces, and work it with your fingers into the dry ingredients until the mixture is uniformly crumbly.

Pour the rhubarb mixture into a deep baking pan and spread evenly. Sprinkle with the topping.

Bake at 375 degrees for about 45 minutes. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Mostarda di Sedano (Celery Preserve)

2010-06-07T18:04:00.000-07:00

You have probably already had celery in appetizers, soups, pasta sauces and other savory dishes. But I think this is the way you are going to enjoy the most. It has a delicate herb-honey flavor and a crunchy texture that pairs lovely with fresh cheeses. I specially love it with mozzarella di bufala or with fresh ricotta, but you can combine it with any kind of cheese. It is also delicious on ice cream or with a creamy Greek yogurt as a lighter dessert. It keeps well in the refrigerator for months so you can make a big batch and enjoy it in all those different ways.

Mostarda di Sedano

• 2 pounds firm celery stalks, medium size
• 1 cup sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice (about 2 oranges)
• 1 tablespoon orange zest
• 1 tablespoon brandy

Rinse, dry, cut in cubes and process the celery stalks in a food processor.

Put the cup of sugar and the salt in the saucepan, pour the orange juice, orange zests on top and then all the celery.

Set the pot over medium-low heat and stir as the sugar dissolves and the celery heats and starts releasing its juices. Bring the syrup to a gentle simmer, stirring frequently. Cover the pot and adjust the heat to simmer. Cook for about 25 minutes more, stirring frequently. Uncover the pot and add the brandy, stirring occasionally, until almost all of the liquid has been absorbed or evaporated, about 25 minutes or more. Remove the pan from the heat and let the mostarda cool completely before using. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator. It will keep for months.

Yield: Makes about 2 cups

Torta Capresa (Chocolate Cake from Capri)

2010-04-13T14:07:00.000-07:00

Though chocolate cakes are not a typical Italian dessert, this decadent flourless chocolate cake is very popular in Italy. You can find it in all the elegant pastry shops in Naples but almost every Italian baker has an own version. This is my version.

Makes one (9 inch) cake, about 12 servings

• 1 ½ sticks (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter
• 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate
• ¼ cup sugar
• 1 cup brown sugar
• 6 large eggs
• 1 ½ cups (about 5-6 ounces) ground almonds
• 1 tablespoon cocoa powder
• Cocoa powder, for finishing

Set rack in the middle of oven and preheat to 350° F. Butter a 9 inch round cake pan, 2 inches deep and line with a disk of parchment or wax paper.

Set a large heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water to create a double boiler. Put the butter and chocolate into the bowl to melt, whisking occasionally.Let it cool.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the eggs and the two sugars until light and creamy, about 5 minutes. Stop the mixer and add the chocolate mixture beating again until the mixture is smooth. Turn the mixer off and use a large rubber spatula to stir in the almonds and cocoa powder.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake the cake until it is firm, about 35-40 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick or knife comes out clean.

Invert the cake to a rack and remove the pan. Immediately re-invert to another rack so that the cake cools right-side-up. If the cake sinks slightly in the center as it cools, trim away the sides before inverting the cake to a platter.

Dust the cake with cocoa powder before serving.

Pasquetta and Tortano Napolitano

2010-03-21T09:35:00.000-07:00

Every year, on Monday after Easter, Italians head to the mountains or the beach for the Pasquetta: the first picnic of the year. It is an Italian national holiday and there is not work or school that day. The tradition is to celebrate the arrival of spring with friends and family without the formality of a family meal. There is no fuss or stress or clean-up on the Pasquetta. This is probably why it has always been my mom’s favorite holiday of the year. Although she recalls how in the old days nonna and her friends, all very experienced cooks, got a little bit competitive with their homemade breads, crostatas (savory and sweet tarts) or finger foods. They later spent the afternoon complimenting each others dishes and sharing recipes. One of my favorite Easter breads is Tortano, a Napolitan bread filled with salami, hard-boiled eggs and cheese. It is usually served on Easter day but the leftovers, if there are any, are taken to the Pasquetta picnic. The bread is rich and fulfilling. So delicious!

Tortano

3 cups flour
1 tablespoon dried yest
¾ cup water
1 teaspoon salt
1 ½ stick butter at room temperature
1 cup parmegiano Reggiano (cubed)
½ cup pecorino romano (grated)
1 cup salame napoletano (cubed)
2 eggs (hardboiled and cubed)

Sprinkle yeast over 1/4 cup of warm water (110° F) in a large bowl; let stand until foamy (about 5 minutes). Add 1/3 cup of the flour without stirring. Let it rest (covered with plastic wrap) for 20 minutes. Add the rest of the flour and water and mix until combined. Add the butter cut in pieces. Mix in a stand mixer until the dough pulls from the sides of the bowl (around 10 minutes). Add the salt and continue mixing at medium speed until the dough is soft, shiny and elastic (7 to 10 minutes).

Let it rest, covered, until doubled in size (about 1 ½ - 2 hours).

Punch down the dough. Roll the dough with a rolling pin into a rectangle about 1- inch thick.

Arrange the cheese, salame and eggs, leaving 1 inch at the end, so you can seal the bread.

Roll it up like a Swiss roll (my assistant helped with this).

Place the bread on a baking sheet and let it rise, covered with plastic wrap, until doubled in size (about 2 hours).

Brush the bread evenly with the glaze and prick with a fork on the top. Bake at 370° F for 45 minutes or until golden brown. Let it cool slightly before slicing.

Slice into 1-inch thick pieces and serve warm or at room temperature.

Pizzelli: Anise Waffle Cookies from Abruzzo

2010-03-07T21:34:00.000-08:00

My mom always made big batches of these anise -scented wafers, typical of the Abruzzo region, with the hope that we had enough of them to enjoy for morning breakfast and to offer to her friends when she invited them over for coffee and gossip in the afternoons. But pizzelle never lasted for more than a day in our home, and my mom always complained that she didn’t have anything to offer her guests to go with their coffee. We just love to eat pizzelle straight from the ferro (waffle iron) with marmalade or Nutella. This is my family recipe for pizzelli:

Makes 2 dozen wafers

• 2 cups flour

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1 teaspoon anise seeds

• 2 large eggs

• Pinch of salt

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 1 tablespoon rum
• 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
• Zest of 1 lemon, grated

• Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting

Mix flour, baking powder and anise seeds in a bowl and whisk to blend. In another bowl, whisk the eggs and salt until foamy, then gradually whisk in the sugar. When mixture is smooth, whisk in the rum, followed by the oil and lemon zest. Switch to a rubber spatula and fold in the dry ingredients. Let it rest in the refrigerator, covered with plastic wrap, for 1 hour.

Preheat the pizzelle iron, and grease or spray it if suggested in the manufacturer's instructions. Using about 2 teaspoons of batter for each pizzelle, pour batter in the center of the iron, close, and bake about 1 minute (the time required to recite an "Ave Maria”). Then flip the iron over and cook the other side. Open the iron and, if the wafer has a beautiful golden color, it is cooked..

Erbazzone: The flavors of Emilia-Romagna

2010-02-16T20:36:00.000-08:00

Although a traditional Italian meal usually has several courses, including appetizer, first course, second course, salad, and fruit or dessert; Italians don’t eat this way every day. The multi-course banquet is reserved for Sunday’s family reunion or for special occasions. But most Italians, especially those with more demanding jobs, have a quick snack at the closest bar (coffee shop) or forno (bakery) before heading back to work. Most of those places sell panino (sandwich usually made with cheese and cold cuts) and pizza al taglio (pizza sold by weight or by slice) but there are also local specialties that define the gastronomy of the region.

For example, at Reggio Emilia, in the Emilia Romagna region, Erbazzone is really worth a full mention. The locals from Reggio are particularly proud of this savory pie filled with spinach, swiss chard, onions, lard and of course, the famous Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The Erbazzone is a great dish for any occasion, rich in flavor, appetizing and aromatic. It is a perfect snack or meal, any time of day.

Erbazzone
Dough
• 1 cup All Purpose flour
• 4 tablespoon olive oil
• 50 ml milk (about ¼ cup)
• Pinch salt
Filling
• 2 pounds chard leaves
• 2 tablespoon olive oil
• 6 tablespoon Parmigiano-Reggiano
• 1 small onion (finely chopped)
• 1 clove garlic
• pepper
• salt

To make the dough, knead the flour with the oil and milk to obtain a stiff dough. Knead for about 10 minutes, wrap with plastic and keep in a cool place for about one hour.

To make the filling, clean, wash and drain the chard well and dry thoroughly. Chop the chard coarsely. Lightly sauté the onions with olive oil and salt. When the onions are transparent add the chard and cook for about 15 minutes.

Put in a bowl and let cool. Add the garlic and, if necessary, a pinch of salt and pepper.
To assemble the tart, lightly coat a spring form pan or a pie pan with olive oil. Split the dough in two balls, one larger than the other one. Roll out the bigger ball with a rolling pin and make a disk large enough to line the baking pan (bottom and sides).

Arrange the chard in layers, sprinkling each layer with grated cheese. Roll out the remaining batch of dough, making a disk larger than the diameter of the baking pan. Roll this disk around the rolling pin and unroll over the chard. Pinch the edges of the two disks of dough together; brush with olive oil and bake at about 400ºF for 40 mins.

In Emilia, a piece of hard-lard is sometimes used instead of oil to dot the dough. Erbazzone can be served either hot or cold.

Scorzette di Arancie Candite (Candied Orange Peels)

2009-12-09T17:58:00.000-08:00

You can make this recipe with any citrus

• 4 medium size organic oranges

• 2 cups sugar (approximately)

• 1 cup water

With a knife, remove the peel from the oranges. Don’t worry if you get the bitter white pith. Place the strips in a small saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring it to a boil and let it boil for five minutes. Drain and repeat this process 3 more times. Let the peels cool until they can be handled easily. With a sharp knife, cut the peels into ¼ inch wide strips. Return to the saucepan, add the sugar and water and cook over moderate heat until the liquid has evaporated and the peel is bright and shiny. Spread the peels on a rack over a baking sheet, separating the strips. Let them dry overnight. The next day, toss the peels with sugar. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. The candied peels will keep for up to 6 months.

Apple Tart

2009-11-16T23:30:00.000-08:00

This is a great tart to serve for Thanksgiving or for any dinner party!

1 cup all purpose flour plus extra for sprinkling
1/8 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 tsp salt
2 tablespoon sugar
1/4 pound (1 sticks) cold butter, diced
1 egg beaten
About 100 ml iced water
3 tablespoon apricot preserve
4 medium apples (granny smith or golden delicious)
1/2 cup sugar

To make the pastry, put the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder and butter into a bowl. Rub the butter into the flour mixture with your fingers until it is mealy and resembles fine breadcrumbs, with some larger flecks of butter still visible. Pour the beaten egg and 100 ml of iced water into the bowl. Quickly knead the dough until it comes together, the dough will be soft, a bit sticky and a little rough looking. Wrap the dough and allow it to rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour (better overnight).

Roll out the dough into a rough rectangle about 11″ by 16″ and transfer it to a baking sheet. Cover the pastry with plastic wrap and allow it to rest in the fridge for 30mins.

Peel the apples and slice themy thin (1/8 inch thick). Spread the apricot preserve in a thin layer on the top of the pastry dough. Arrange the slices in 4 or 5 rows over the pastry like cards in solitaire. Allow it to rest in the fridge until you are ready to bake.

Preheat the oven to 375F. Sprinkle the extra sugar over the apples and then bake the tart for about 45mins or until the pastry is crisp and the apples are soft and golden.Serve immediately in large squares with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Cotognata: Quince Preserve

2009-11-05T06:46:00.000-08:00

If you haven't tasted quince yet, you are missing out on one of the most luscious and fragrant fruits! Hard as a rock and inedible in its raw form, quince transforms to a mellow sweetness when slowly cooked with sugar. In the same way its paled yellow flesh turns to an attractive bright reddish color during the slow cooking process. Because of its high pectin content, it is wonderful for making jellies, preserves or fruit paste.

Native to the Caucasus region, between the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea, the quince has been cultivated for thousands of years. Many historians believe that the “Forbidden Fruit of the Garden of Eden” mentioned in the Bible wasn’t really an apple, but a quince. It was highly valued by ancient Romans and Greeks. The fruit was given to brides on their wedding day as the symbol of love, happiness and fertility. It was also valued by Medievals and highly used as a condiment to enhance the flavor of meats, poultry, and other savory dishes. A quince paste cut into small pieces and rolled with sugar was served as a an elegant dessert treat in many court banquets.

Nowadays, quince is commonly grown in central and southern Europe, where the summers are sufficiently hot for the fruit to fully ripen. They are also widely grown in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay. Although quince is not very popular in North America, it is grown mostly in California and New York, and it is gaining popularity among pastry chefs.

Quinces can usually be found between October and January. The fruit resembles a cross between a Golden Delicious apple and a pear. Choose fruit firm and yellow, with a fragrant smell. The best way to store quince is in a tightly sealed bag in the refrigerator, where it can last up to two months.

In Italy, one of the most common ways to prepare quince is “Cotognata" - which is similar to the better-known Spanish “ Dulce de Membrillo”. In Spain it's commonly served with Manchego cheese, which you can substitute with any other cheese with a flavor strong enough to stand up to the sweetness of the sweet quince.

Cotognata Recipe

1 pound quince
1 ¼ cup sugar
1 lemon zest and juice

Wash the fruits and place it in a baking pan covered with aluminum foil.

Bake them for 1 ½ hour. Let them cool.

Core ant take out the seeds from quinces, then cut them in 1/3 inch cubes and process the fruits with a blender until very smooth (I like to leave some small pieces of the fruit). Place the mixture in a large pot and add the sugar, the lemon juice and the lemon zest.

Simmer over low medium heat, stirring constantly, until the quince puree thickens and has a deep red color. This could take about 30- 40 minutes.

Let it cool in a shallow pan.

Serve cotognata with cheese (especially manchego, gorgonzola or goat cheese). It also makes a great filling for sweet tarts.

Maple Banana Bread

2009-10-25T18:47:00.000-07:00

Yield: 2 loaf

2 cups flour
1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ginger
1/2 teaspoon cloves
1 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup mapple syrup
1 cup banana puree (about 3 bananas)
1/4 cup rum
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Generously butter two 8 1/2-x-4 1/2-inch loaf pan and line it with parchment paper. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and salt. In a mixer or by hand, whisk the eggs with the sugar until the mixture is white and thick. Add in the maple syrup, banana pure and rum. When the mixture is well blended, gently whisk in the dry ingredients. Switch to a spatula and fold in the oil. The batter will be thick and shiny. Scrape it into the pans and smooth the top. Bake the loaf for 50 to 55 minutes, or until it is golden and starts to come away from the sides of the pan; a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake will come out clean. Cool on a rack for 5 minutes, then run a knife between the cake and the sides of the pan. Unmold and cool to room temperature i a rack.

Pane dei Morti: All Souls Day in Italy

2009-09-29T20:45:00.000-07:00

Italy doesn't have a Halloween tradition per se, but there is Ogni Santi, All Saints' Day, on November 1st and Il Giorno dei Morti, All Souls Day, on November 2nd. During those celebrations, you won’t find costumes, scary decorations or children trick-or-treating on the street. Instead, people go to the cemetery to visit their loved ones and bring flowers and candles to their graves. It is a common tradition to go to mass and pray for the deceased. Fairs are set up in towns all over Italy. In Sicily, where All Soul’s Day has the same importance as Christmas, people leave food out the night before for spirits and children would awake on the morning of All Saints or All Souls to find small gifts from their deceased ancestors. I know it sounds freaky! But it is a cheerful holiday rather than the sad one you may expect. As in many other Italian celebrations, special breads and sweets are made for the occasion and even an empty place is left at the dinner table for the ones that are missed.

Like Halloween, the origin of those celebrations seems linked to “Samhain”, a pagan ancient Celtic festival observed in pre-Roman culture to mark the end of the summer season and the end of the harvest. According to some sources, in November, when the weather started to cool down, banquets with large trays of fresh fruits, cookies and other offerings were prepared and consumed to thank the gods for the harvest and to wish for abundant crops for the following year. In later times when the Judeo-Christian religion became official, this holiday was replaced by All Saints’ Day and the next day was dedicated to honor the Dead.

In this issue I wanted to share a recipe for Pane dei Morti (Bread of the Dead) that I adapted from one of the best pastry chefs in Milan, Maurizio Santin. Pane dei Morti is the most widely used recipe in Lombardia for this celebration.

Pane dei Morti

• 4 cups amaretti cookies

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 1/2 cups sugar

• 1 cup almond blanched and grinded

• 1 ½ teaspoon baking powder

• Pinch salt

• 3.5 oz bittersweet chocolate

• 1 cup dried figs diced into small pieces

• 1 cup raisins soaked in warm water for 15 minutes

• 4 Egg Whites

• ½ cup White Wine

• 1/4 tsp. Cinnamon

• Powdered Sugar

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

In a double boiler, melt chocolate over low heat. Cool slightly. Crumb the amaretti to a powder and mix with the flour, almonds, sugar, baking powder and salt in a large mixing bowl.

Add the melted chocolate, wine and egg whites. Mix everything together until combined. Drain the raisins and pat dry with a towel. Add the raisins and the figs to the chocolate mixture. Knead vigorously for about ten minutes until you obtain a soft dough. Divide the dough in pieces with the shape of 4 inches long and flat oval biscuits.

Cover a pan with a sheet of parchment paper and place the biscuits on it.

Put them in the oven and cook for about 30 minutes. Serve them with powdered sugar

Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Yogurt Loaf

2009-09-27T21:05:00.000-07:00

Makes 8 servings

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of salt
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1 cup sugar
3/4 cup plain whole milk yogurt
3 large eggs
1 tablespoon rum
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Generously butter an 8 1/2-x-4 1/2-inch loaf pan and line it with parchment paper. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, zest and salt.
In a mixer or by hand, whisk the eggs with the sugar until the mixture is white and thick. Add in the yogurt and rum. When the mixture is well blended, gently whisk in the dry ingredients. Switch to a spatula and fold in the oil. The batter will be thick and shiny. Scrape it into the pan and smooth the top.
Bake the loaf for 50 to 55 minutes, or until it is golden and starts to come away from the sides of the pan; a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake will come out clean. Cool on a rack for 5 minutes, then run a knife between the cake and the sides of the pan. Unmold and cool to room temperature i a rack.

Piadina Romagnola (Italian flatbread from Emilia Romagna)

2009-07-01T23:08:00.000-07:00

If you feel discouraged about the time and experience required by bread making, piadina - an Italian ancient flatbread - may change your mind. It takes less than 30 minutes to make because it is unleavened and it cooks in just 4 minutes on the stove. It makes a good twist on bread, especially during the summer, when it is too hot to turn on the oven.

Piadina is the most classic specialty from the Romagna region (Forlì-Cesena, Ravenna and Rimini) along the Adriatic coast. It is usually made with wheat flour, water, salt and lard (or olive oil) to enrich it and make it fragile and more flavorful. The dough was traditionally cooked on a testo (terracotta dish) but nowadays flat pans or griddles are commonly used.

Piadina is so popular along the Adriatic Coast that there are hundreds of specialized kiosks called piadinerie that sell warm piadinas filled with a variety of melted cheeses, cold cuts and vegetables. One of the most classic fillings is prosciutto, creamy cheese like squaquerone, crescenza or stracchino and greens like rucola (arugula) but there is also a popular sweet version with fillings such as Nutella (chocolate hazelnut spread) and jam. The variety is unlimited! Every family has their own recipe but there may be also small differences depending on the zone of production. Piadinas produced around Ravenna are generally thicker, while those produced around Rimini and the Marche region are thinner and of larger diameter.

The origin of Piadine seems to date to the 1200 BC where the Etruscan settled in the north of Italy. They used to prepare unleavened breads made with a paste of toasted, grounded wheat grains and water that was cooked on hot stones or tiles. They handed down the recipe to the ancient Romans and in most regions of Italy the unleavened bread evolved into focaccia, pizza and others yeasted bread. In the Emilia Romana piadina survived as a bread for the poor and later became popular among wealthy people and tourists. Nowadays is a symbol of the Romagna cuisine.

Piadina
Makes 5 rounds
- 2 cups all-purpose flour
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- pinch sea salt
- 2 oz extra virgin olive oil (or 2 oz lard)
- 1 cup cold water

Combine the flour, baking soda and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl if you want to knead it by hand) and mix together.

Add the olive oil and the water, just a little bit at a time, and mix on the stand mixer with a dough hook on low speed until the dough starts to form into a ball. Increase the speed to medium, and let it knead until smooth, about 5 minutes.

Remove the bowl from the mixer and cover the dough with plastic wrap. Let the dough sit for 30 minutes at room temperature.

Heat the griddle on medium-high to quite hot.

Divide the dough into 5 pieces, and roll each piece out to 10 inch rounds.

The discs should be about 1/8 inch thick.

Lightly brush the bread on both sides with olive oil.

Place each rounds on the griddle (depending on the size of your griddle)

and cook for about 2 minutes on each side, or until you see the little brown spots that mark when it’s done.

The piadina are best eaten warm from the griddle. When they are still warm add the filling ingredients. You can use any soft cheese or cold meat you want. I made my piadine with teleme cheese, fresh basil and coppa toscana. Yummi!

Sbrisolana di Rabarbaro (Rhubarb crumbly cake)

2009-05-10T05:30:00.000-07:00

Sbrisolona is a traditional crumbly cake from Mantova, in the Pianura Padana. The original recipe resembles more that of a cookie than a cake and doesn't include a filling. I created this version as an entry for a fresh produce of the month event featuring rhubarb as an ingredient. The tangy flavor and moistness of the rhubarb pair wonderfuly with the crispy texture and sweet flavor of the crust:

For the dough:
- 2 1/2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
- 1 cup almonds, finely chopped
- 1 cup finely ground cornmeal
- 1 cup sugar
- zest of a lemon
- 2 egg yolks
- 1 1/2 stick of butter
- 2 tablespoon butter for the pan

For the filling:
- 1 pound of Rhubarb
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1 tablespoon brandy
- 1 lemon juice

To make the dough: In a bowl mix the flour, the almonds, the cornmeal and the sugar. Cut the butter in small pieces and add to the flour mixture, working with your hands until small crumbs are formed. Add the yolks and the lemon zest and knead until it is completely incorporated into the mixture. The dough will not be smooth. Instead it will have a very crumbly consistency. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least half hour.

To make the rhubarb filling: Wash rhubarb and cut off any dry or brown spots. Slice rhubarb into 1/2 inch slices. Cook them with the sugar in a saucepan, covered, over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the lid, turn the heat up high and cook, stirring constantly, until you have a thick puree (about 25 minutes). Let it cool.

Assemble the cake: Preheat your oven to 360 F (180 C). Butter a 10 inch round cake pan and sprinkle half of the mixture evenly into it. Press it down in an even layer. Use a small spatula or the back of a spoon to spread the rhubarb filling in an even layer over the surface of the dough. Sprinkle the rest of the dough over the filling in an even layer. Bake the cake for about 45 minutes or until golden brown.
Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar before serving.

Tiramisu al Limoncello

2009-04-28T13:03:00.000-07:00

If you are fond of the classic tiramisu, you would definitively enjoy this fresh twist on the popular Italian coffee dessert. Served with strawberries, tiramisu al limoncello is a great dessert choice for a spring celebration like Mother’s Day. I also like the combination of lemon flavored mascarpone with blueberries and other summer berries. You can serve it in a large dish for a family-style dessert, or in individual glasses or elegant cups for a more delightful presentation.
This recipe comes from one of my favorite Italian pastry chefs, Salvatore De Riso, owner of the Pasticceria De Riso in the town of Midori on the Amalfi Coast. I adapted the recipe to make it easier to assemble without compromising the wonderful lemon flavor of the mascarpone lemon cream and the limoncello syrup. Although the recipe has several components and it seems like a lot of work, the lemon cream and the lemon syrup can be made 2 or 3 days in advance and the tiramisu can be assembled very fast, 3 or 4 hours before serving it. I like to serve it with berries that are in season during spring and summer time.

Limoncello Tiramisu
Serves 8-10

Limoncello Simple Syrup
- 1 cup water
- ¾ cup sugar
- 1/4 cup Limoncello

Mix water and sugar in a small sauce pan. Bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the limoncello. Place in refrigerator to cool (it can be made several days in advance).

Limoncello Cream
- 3/4 cup lemon juice (about 4 lemons)
- 1 tablespoon lemon zest (about 2 lemons
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 3 egg yolks
- 4 oz butter (1 stick)
- 1/4 cup limoncello

Place lemon juice, lemon zest and sugar in a sauce pan over medium heat.

Bring it to a boil and let it cool slightly. In a clean bowl beat the yolks to combine.

Dribble a small amount of hot lemon mixture in a steady stream into the yolks while quickly whisking the two together.

Continue to dribble in the lemon mixture and whisk until you feel, with your hand, that the bowl's side or bottom has become warm or as close as possible to the liquid's temperature. Continue to add the rest of the hot liquids in a steady stream to the yolks while whisking (this process is called tempering and it is done to avoid cooking the yolks).

Cook the mixture over moderately low heat, whisking frequently, until cream is thick enough to hold marks of whisk and first bubble appears on surface, about 6 minutes.

Stir in butter and limoncello. Transfer lemon cream to a bowl and let it cool to room temperature or below. Cover it with plastic wrap. At this point you can refrigerate the mixture for 2 or 3 days until you are ready to assemble the tiramisu.

Assembling Ingredients
- 1 pound mascarpone cheese (at room temperature)
- 3 tablespoon powdered sugar
- Limoncello Cream (recipe above)
- 2 cups heavy cream, whipped until soft peaks
- Limoncello Syrup (recipe above)
- 1 pound of lady finger cookies (about 30-40 lady finger cookies)

Mix mascarpone cheese and powdered sugar in a clean bowl until soft.

Add to the Lemon Cream (at room temperature). Mix until smooth. Do not over whip when using mascarpone cheese or it will separate.

Fold whipped cream (soft peaks) into above yolk/mascarpone cheese mixture.

Dip ladyfingers in the limoncello Syrup for ½ minute on each side

and then alternate layers of lady fingers soaked with simple syrup and cream in a 8 x 12 pan.

Begin with cookies and finish with cream.

It is best to assemble several hours before cutting.

Store in refrigerator until ready to serve.

Torta Umbra al Formaggio (Cheese Bread from Umbria)

2009-03-27T06:39:00.000-07:00

Although torta means cake in Italian, Torta Umbra al Formaggio is actually a savory fragrant cheese bread from Umbria. It is traditionaly enjoyed on Pasqua (Easter) morning with boiled eggs, prosciutto and other cold cuts but it can also be served as an accompaniment to any meal. It is especially good during spring, as cows eat the best products that the land has to offer during this time of the year, and the cheeses made from their milk are the most flavorful. This is probably why most of the Italian pastries and breads to celebrate Easter are made with ricotta and other cheeses.

This is my interpretation of a recipe found in an Italian forum (coquinaria.it).

Makes one loaf
- 2 tablespoons dried yeast (2 packages)
- 1/3 cup water
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 4 cups flour
- 5 eggs
- 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 4 tablespoons lard (I used butter)
- 1 teaspoon pepper
- 6 ounces pecorino Romano
- 5 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano

To make the bread nice and tall, grease a 9-inches cake pan with olive oil. Line the sides of the pan with parchment paper so that it extends 15 inches from the top.

Sprinkle yeast over warm water (110°F) in a large stand mixer bowl; let stand until foamy (about 5 minutes).

Add sugar and 1/3 cup of the flour without stirring. Let it rest (covered with plastic wrap) for 20 minutes. Add the rest of the flour, the eggs and oil.

Mix in stand mixer until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl (around 10 minutes). Add the salt and continue mixing at medium speed until the dough is soft, shiny and elastic (7-10 minutes).

Add the pepper and cheeses. Knead the dough until thoroughly combined.

Let it rest, covered, until it doubles in size (about 2 to 3 hours).

Punch down the dough.

Form the dough into a round loaf. Place into the prepared mold.

Cover with plastic wrap and let it proof until it doubles in size (around 2 or 3 hour).

Bake for 45 minutes at 400° F. Let it sit for 20 minutes before cutting and serving. It is better eaten 4 days after you make it.

Serve it with cold cuts. Enjoy!

Biscotti ai pignoli (Pine nuts cookies)

2009-02-24T21:24:00.000-08:00

This cookies were inspired by zaletti, a traditional cookie from the region of Veneto in Italy. Zaletti are traditionally made with cornmeal pine nuts and currants and come in a diamond shape. I substitute the cornmeal with all purpose flour and omit the currants. The results were surprisingly delightful. The cookies are pleasant sweet and great to deep into a fragrant cup coffee.

Biscotti ai Pignoli (Pine nut cookies)

- ½ cup butter (at room temperature)
- ½ cup sugar
- 2 eggs
- 1 lemon zest
- 1 tablespoon brandy
- 1 ½ cup flour
- 1 ½ teaspoon baking powder
- pinch of salt
- ¾ cup pine nuts
extra sugar for decoration

Preheat the oven a 350 F. Line a baking cookie pan with parchment paper.
In a mixing bowl cream together the butter and the sugar with a wooden spoon or a electric mixer until the color changes from yellow to white. The mixture will then be soft and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time. Add the lemon zest and brandy. In another bowl mix together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix everything together until combined. Add the pine nuts. With a tablespoon or small ice cream scoop, scoop enough dough to form a 1-inch ball.
Roll balls in the extra sugar. Place balls on prepared baking sheets, leaving 2 inches between for spreading.

Viva il Carnevale 2009!

2009-02-18T10:41:00.000-08:00

Many traditions have been replaced or disappeared, but masquerades and fried pastries are still the protagonist of Carnevale in Italy. This year Carnival falls on Feb 24th. While in Venice and Viareggio everybody is getting ready for the sumptuous masquerades and opulent festivals, I am here in California trying a new recipe for a fried pastry to join in the celebration. This year is Frittelle di Mela or Apple Fritter. These pastries are a classic from the Veneto region, loved by all ages and they make a delightful snack or dessert. As a dessert I like to serve it warm with vanilla Ice cream.

Frittelle di Mela

- 4 granny smith apples
- 1 lemon juice
- 2 teaspoon dried yeast
- 1 ¼ cups flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 orange zest
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 eggs
- 1 cup milk
- 1 teaspoon vanilla

Peel and core the apples, then cut them into 1/4-inch rings crosswise, so as to obtain a great number of doughnuts.
Place the apples in a bowl covered with water and the juice of one lemon.

Dissolve the yeast in 1/2 cup of warm milk (110 F).

Stir in the flour, salt, zest, sugar, eggs, the rest of the milk and the vanilla. Whisk everything together until combined. Let the batter rest in a bowl covered with plastic wrap at room temperature for 2 hours. Heat the oil until it registers 350 on a thermometer.

Dip slices of apples into batter and deep fry until golden on both sides.

Remove with slotted spoon and blot dry with paper towels.

Serve immediately covered with powder sugar.

Buon Carnevale!

Torta al Olio di Oliva (Olive Oil Cake)

2009-02-07T22:34:00.000-08:00

This is a great cake to serve for breakfast or an afternoon snack. For this recipe I used Olivina certified Lucca Extra virgin olive oil. The slightly fruity, and sweet buttery flavors of this oil enhance the delicate citrus flavor of this cake.

- 3 cups flour
- 2 teaspoon baking powder
- 4 large egg yolks
- 3/4 cup Olivina certified Lucca Extra virgin olive oil
- 3/4 cup orange juice
- zest of 2 oranges
- 3/4 teaspoon salt
- 1 tablespoon brandy
- 5 large egg whites
- 2 cups sugar

Preheat the oven to 375°. Line a 9-inch baking pan with parchment paper and coat lightly with nonstick vegetable oil spray. In a medium bowl, stir the flour and baking powder. In a large bowl, mix the egg yolks and 1 cup of the sugar at medium speed until very frothy, about 3 minutes. Add the olive oil, orange juice, zests, salt and brandy and mix at low speed. Add the flour mixture and mix until the flour is fully incorporated.
In a clean bowl, using clean beaters, beat the egg whites at medium-high speed until foamy. Gradually add the remaining 1 cup of sugar and beat until the egg whites are thick and glossy, about 4 minutes. Scoop a cup of the beaten egg whites into the batter and stir until combined. Fold the remaining egg whites into the batter until no streaks remain. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes, until the cake is golden and starts to pull away from the side. Set the pan on a rack and let the cake cool completely, about 1 hour.

Winter: time for Limoncello

2009-01-24T15:05:00.000-08:00

Winter, when citrus are in season and at the best of their flavor, is my favorite time for making limoncello at home. Because I can preserve its refreshing flavor and enjoy it all year round.

Limoncello is a traditional, lemon-flavored, southern-Italian dessert liqueur that is often served chilled as “digestivo” after a meal. It is mainly produced in the region around the Gulf of Naples the Amalfi coast and the Sorrentine peninsule, but also in Sicily, Sardinia and the Maltese island of Gozo.

There is not doubt that limoncello is gaining popularity around the world. For many Italians, like my brother in-law Gabrielle, a family meal is uncompleted without a sip of limoncello. In many Italian restaurants a small “per la casa” (on the house) glass of limoncello is offered at the end of a meal. I have already seen in restaurant menus a limoncello version of tiramisu, panettone, zabaione and other desserts. Even Danny DeVito has created his own brand of limoncello (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPxC-3B576M).

Limoncello is made with the peel of freshly harvested lemons (preferably organic), alcohol, spring water and sugar. It’s a fantastic dessert drink and is exceptionally easy and inexpensive to make. The only difficult part of making limoncello is to be patient as it takes at least 6 weeks to produce a good one. This is my version with Vodka.

Limoncello

- 7 large organic lemons (organic Meyer lemons makes a great choice )
- 2 cups water
- 1/2 cups 2 tablespoon sugar
- 2 cups of vodka

Wash the lemons thoroughly. Take the skins off the lemon with a peeler being careful not to get any of the white pith as it will add bitterness to the limoncello.

Put the peels into a large bottle with the vodka and seal the lid tightly. Put the bottle in a cool, dry place for two weeks – shaking the content once a day.

Two weeks later, make a syrup -bringing the water and the sugar to a boil to dissolve the sugar. Then cool the syrup to room temperature.

Strain the lemon peels out of the vodka and then mix the vodka with the cooled syrup.

Pour the mixture into bottles, seal them tightly and store them in a cool dry place. Keep the limoncello for one month before serve it.

Limoncello bottles make great gifts for friends and family; just get nice bottles and label them as gift.

Enjoy!

Biscotti di Mandorle al Cuor di cioccolato

2008-12-07T06:13:00.000-08:00

Almond Cookies filled with Chocolate truffles
Yield: 35 cookies

For the cookie:

2 cups all-purpose flour
1 & 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
pinch salt
8 oz almond paste
1 & 1/4 sticks (10 tablespoons) butter, room temperature
3/4 cup sugar
zest of 1 organic orange
2 large egg whites, room temperature
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
Extra sugar for decoration

For the Ganache:

1/2 cup cream
1/2 cup bittersweet chocolate
1 tablespoon amaretto liquor

To make the cookie:

Preheat oven to 325° F . Line cookie sheets with parchment paper.
Mix together flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl. Set aside.
Combine almond paste, butter, orange zest and sugar in mixing bowl. Beat on high speed until the mixture is soft and fluffy

Add egg whites and almond extract. Beat until combined.
Mix in flour mixture on low speed until just incorporated. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

With a tablespoon or small ice cream scoop, scoop enough dough to form a 1-inch ball.
Roll balls in the extra sugar. Place balls on prepared baking sheets, leaving 2 inches between for spreading. Press thumb (or the back of a wooden spoon) gently on top of each cookie.

Bake for 15 minutes or until cookies are light golden. Remove cookie to wire rack to cool.

To make the ganache:

Chop the chocolate in small pieces and place it in a mixing bowl. Set aside. Heat the cream in a medium sized pan over medium heat. Bring just to a boil.

Immediately pour the boiling cream over the chocolate and allow to stand for 1 minutes.

Stir with a whisk until smooth. Add the liqueur.

To assemble the cookies:

Fill the cookies with the warm ganache.

Let the ganache set at room temperature for several hours before serving the cookies.

BUON NATALE E BUON ANNO!

Carnevale is here!

2008-01-20T08:26:00.000-08:00

As much as I try to limit the consumption of fried pastries from my daily diet, when Carnevale arrives, I don’t even make an effort. I crave for them and indulge myself with all the flavors I enjoyed during my childhood. After all, they are once a year holiday treats and, as a popular Italian proverb says, “In Carnival, everything goes” (“A Carnevale ogni scherzo vale”).
Last year I talked about Carnevale in Italy and shared my recipe for Chiachiere. This year I want to share with you my recipe for Castagnole.

Castagnole (Puffy Fritters)

These Carnival treats got their name because of their castagna (chestnut) shape and size. I prefer to eat them once they cool down, as they melt in your mouth, bringing out the delicate flavor of the anise liquor.

• 3 ½ cups all-purpose flour
• ¾ cup sugar
• 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
• Pinch of salt
• 3 eggs
• 1 tablespoon anise seeds
• 1 tablespoon anise liquor
• ½ cup milk
• ½ cup oil for frying (olive or canola)
• Confectioners’ sugar to dust the castagnoli

Mix the dry ingredients together. Add eggs, liqueur, seeds, milk and oil and mix until you have a soft, smooth dough.

Wrap with plastic wrap and let it rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Cutting a piece of dough at a time, roll the dough to form 1-inch thick cylinders. Cut the cylinders in pieces the size of a large cherry and roll them between your hands to form little balls. To fry the castagnole, heat the oil to 360ºF.

Fry the castagnoli until golden brown. Place on a plate covered with paper towels.

Dust them with confectioners’ sugar and serve at room temperature.

Figs in sweet and savory dishes

2007-08-24T14:17:00.000-07:00

Every time the fig season arrives, I recall one of the most memorable dishes I had when I was working at the Rose Pistola in North Beach: prosciutto-wrapped figs with gorgonzola. The sharpness of the cheese with the saltiness of the prosciutto paired wonderfully with the sweet figs. Although I had tried perfectly ripened figs before, especially in Italy from the trees of my grandma’s house, I wasn't really fond of the fruit. But now, after trying this dish, I look forward to the fig season to experiment with them in my kitchen. They are so versatile that you can include them in sweet and savory dishes. When they are ripe, they have a rich honey flavor and pair wonderfully with cheese or salty ingredients, like salmon, bacon, or prosciutto. I especially like the combination of figs with blue cheese like Gorgonzola or Roquefort. I also find that caramelized figs pair lovely with mild cheese like mascarpone or goat cheese.

There are two fig seasons; one in June and another one starting in late summer and ending in early fall. I personally find that the best figs come at the end of August and the beginning of September. They must be picked ripe from the trees as they do not ripen well once picked. When figs are ripe they are soft to the touch but not mushy and have a thin, unblemished skin. When selecting them, avoid very firm fruit as will not properly ripen further and will lack flavor. Since the fruit is delicate and extremely perishable you should store it in the refrigerator and consume within a day or two.

There are hundreds of fig varieties in United State, but the most commonly grown commercial ones are the Black Mission, the Calimyrna (Smyrna grown in California) and the Brown Turkish. Each is remarkably different in both appearance and flavor.

The Black Mission figs, named for the missionary fathers who planted the fruit as they traveled north along the California coast in 1759, are the most popular and commonly found in the peak of the summer growing season. They are deep violet to black in color, with a juicy pulp and a rich and intense honey-sweet flavor. You can eat them fresh or in your favorite recipe. This is my favorite fig for cooking as its sweet flavor is intensified when the fruit is caramelized.

The Calimyrna is the California version of the Smyrna fig that originated in Turkey, which was imported by a San Joaquin Valley grower in 1882. It is golden in color and has a nutty sweet flavor. They are great fresh or cooked in marmalades or chutneys.

The Brown Turkey is a large Turkish fig with a rosy interior. It is juicier than the average fig, which makes them great for baking because they hold their shape nicely and the sugars in the juice caramelize as they cook. I like to add them in my baking goods: breads, focaccia, cakes.

From appetizers to deserts, figs can be used in a variety of dishes. I like to caramelize them with honey or sugar and serve them in salads, as stuffing for poultry or pork or as a dessert accompanied with ice cream, or for a richer flavor with goat cheese or gorgonzola. The imagination is the limit with figs!

In this issue I want to share with you one of my favorite recent experiments with figs:

Fichi Sciroppati col Formaggio di Pecora (Caramelized Figs with Goat Cheese)

The sugar in this recipe preserves nicely the fruit and you will be able to enjoy the rich flavor of figs until winter time.

- 1 pound fresh ripe Black Mission Figs (you can experiment with any other variety)
- 1 ½ cup sugar
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 pepper corn
- pinch of salt
- 1 lemon zest and juice
- 2 tablespoon Brandy

Place the figs in a single layer in a saucepan. Add the lemon zest, the lemon juice, the pepper corn, salt and the cinnamon stick.

Cover them with the sugar and cook them over a low heat for about 45 minutes, turning them carefully every 10 minutes.

The sugar will turn into a nice violet syrup caramelizing the figs. Turn the heat off and add the Brandy.

Let the fig cool completely before placing them in a clean container with the syrup covered with a lid or with plastic wrap. Refrigerate them overnight or up to a month. I like to serve them at least a week after preparing them as the flavor intensifies with time.

Serve it with goat cheese or gorgonzola for a rich dessert.

Focaccia ai Lamponi e Basilico (Raspberry Focaccia with Basil)

2007-06-28T07:47:00.000-07:00

Who can resist the aroma of fresh bread baking in the oven? It always amazes me how with only 4 ingredients in different proportions - water, flour, yeast and a little bit of salt - you can create a variety of different fragrant breads, from light flat breads, and soft rolls to earthy rustic loaf. In addition to that, you can flavor these breads with herbs, cheeses, extra virgin olive oil, or seasonal vegetables.

This is probably what Italian peasants came up with when they simply took a little dough, sprinkle with olive oil, herbs, or whatever produce or cheese they had available, and turned it into a delicious focaccia.

Focaccia is one of the most popular Italian flatbreads. Because it is very simple to make, it is a great introduction to bread making, especially if you feel intimidated by yeast. It is so versatile that you can serve it as an appetizer lightly flavored with olive oil and herbs; as a accompaniment of the main meal with, cheese, vegetables or meats; and even as a dessert! topped with fresh summer fruits.

In this issue I want to share with you my recipe for focaccia di lamponi e basilico (Raspberry focaccia with basil). I love to serve it as a dessert with a creamy cheese, like cremosino or brie; a blue cheese like gorgonzola or with fresh mozzarella or goat cheese, like chevre.

When buying berries, look for firm, dry, fragrant and uniformly colored fruits. Stay away from containers of berries with juice stains which may be sign that the berries are crushed and possibly moldy. As soon as you bring berries home check them over for decay, mold or for smashed or moldy fruits. Discard any moldy fruit and store it in the refrigerator in a single layer on a paper towel-lined shallow pan. Raspberries are more fragile than other berries and should be eaten as soon as possible. If stored, used within a day or two of purchase. Warmth and moisture can cause spoilage, so refrigerate berries but don't wash them until you're ready to use them.

Rasberry Focaccia

- 2 cups bread flour (King Arthur)
- 1/2 cup water
- 1 teaspoons salt
- 1 envelope active dry yeast
- ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil plus extra for the pan
- 2 tablespoon sugar

For the topping
- 3 tablespoon sugar
- 1 pint raspberries
- 2 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon basil finely shopped
Yield: 1 x 12-inch round focaccias

Warm 1/3 cup of water to 110 F.

Dissolve the dry yeast into the water and let it rest for 5 minutes.

Add the rest of the water (cold) and the flour, and mix until the dough comes together.
Add sugar, salt and 1/4 cup olive oil and continue kneading until the dough becomes elastic and cleans the sides of the bowl (approximately 15 minutes in a Kitchen Aid with hook attachment and 30 minutes kneading by hand).

Put the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest until it doubles it size (approximately 2 hours).

After the first rise, oil generously a baking pan with olive oil. Scrape the dough out of the bowl and pat and press the dough into the pan to form a 11 inch circle. If the dough resists, wait a few minutes and continue. With a fingertip, make impressions in the dough at 2-inch intervals.

Arrange the filling ingredients evenly over the top.

Cover the dough with a piece of oiled plastic wrap (oiled side down) and allow the dough to rise again until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 450 degrees and set a rack in the lower third. When dough has risen, bake until deep golden, about 25-30 minutes.

This focaccia is great served with a creamy goat cheese, a fresh mozzarella or for a more contrasting flavor with Parmeggiano Reggiano.

Biscotti to satisfy every taste

2007-04-17T19:25:00.000-07:00

There is not doubt that biscotti and the tradition of dipping them into a fragrant cup of coffee have gained the heart of Americans. You may not find a chocolate chip cookie or an apple pie in every coffee shop, but you can probably have at least one version of this Italian crunchy cookie to dip it into your morning coffee.

The word biscotti means twice-baked because the dough is formed into logs, baked once, cut it in wedges and baked for a second time to dry them out, make them crispy and keep them longer. They can last for months in an airtight container! According to several told stories, Christopher Columbus took tons of biscotti to feed his crew on his long discovery trips.

Although these Italian crunchy cookies are classically 3 inches long and flavored with hazelnuts, almonds or anise seeds, I have seen biscotti up to 7 inches long and flavored with almost everything you can imagine: currant, poppy seeds, dried sour cherries, apricots, chocolate, cornmeal, etc. There is a version of biscotti for every taste and if you cannot find the one you like you can create it yourself. Just add ½ cup of any nut or dried fruit you like to my recipe.

Lemon Rosemary Biscotti
The rosemary and lemon zest gives a refreshing flavor to this version of biscotti. I like to serve them with dessert liquor like Limoncello or Vin Santo. They are also great served with a mild creamy cheese like Brie, Cremosina or Triple Cream.
- 2 cup flour; unbleached, all purpose flour
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- pinch salt
- 2 eggs
- ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil (I used Olivina certified piccoline extra vergin olive oil)
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 1 tablespoon lemon zest; freshly grated
- 2 tablespoon fresh rosemary finely chopped

Sugar for decorating

Line a sheet pan with parchment paper or a Silpad. Preheat the oven to 350F.
In the bowl of an electric mixer, fitted with a paddle attachment, blend the flour, the sugar, the baking soda and the salt. In a small bowl whisk together the whole egg, the oil, the vanilla, the rosemary and the zest; add the eggs mixture to the flour mixture, beating everything together until combined.

Divide the dough in half. Form each piece of dough into a log (approximately 2 inches wide and 12 inches long).

Brush the logs with water and sprinkle them with sugar. Bake the logs in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes. Let them cool for 10 minutes.

On a cutting board, cut the logs crosswise on the diagonal into 1/2 inch thick slices.

Arrange the biscotti, cut sides down, on the baking sheet and bake them, for 10 minutes on each side.

Transfer the biscotti to racks to cool and store them in airtight containers.

Viva il Carnevale!

2007-02-04T09:49:00.000-08:00

Chocolate is in the air as we approach February, but not in Italy, where the smell of fried pastries is everywhere to celebrate “Carnevale” (Mardi Grass). The word carnevale literally means “farewell to meat” from the Latin carnem levare. Although Carnival is a pagan celebration, it refers to the period of preparation for Easter. It is a time of indulgence and the last chance to eat meat before Ash Wednesday which signals the period of preparation for penance and fasting of Lent (40 days before Easter). Although fasting and penitence are not as rigid as it was 50 years ago, the time of indulgence has increased through the years and in many cities the carnival celebrations last up to 4 weeks.

Carnival is without doubt one of the happiest and most popular celebrations around Italy. During the weeks prior to Ash Wednesday Italians dress up in elegant costumes and the streets are festively decorated to receive hundreds of spectators that would enjoy the parades, entertainments and fireworks that are typical of this celebration. One of the most famous festivals is held in Viareggio, with parades on four consecutive weekends prior to Lent that feature opulent floats up to 50-feet high. Also famous is the "battle of the oranges" in Ivrea, where spectators hit each other with the fruit. But nothing is more fascinating than the festival of masks and art in the romantic city of Venezia.

Despite of regional differences, the main characters of Carnevale are the typical fried sweet pastries specially made for the occasion. There are dozens of traditional fried sweets with which Italy has celebrated Carnival for centuries: crispy chiachiere, soft castagnole, fragrant zeppole, creamy cannoli, chewy struffoli, etc. The variety in names, flavors and texture is extensive, but what they have in common is how easy they are to make and how fun they are to eat.

This year the carnevale is celebrated on February 20 but celebrations in many parts of Italy will run from February 9 to the 20. To join the celebration I want to share with you my recipe for “chiachiere”(also known as cenci in Toscana, bugie in Piemonte, sfrappole in Emilia, galani in Veneto, etc). The key to obtain crunchy and light fried pastries is to heat the oil to 360F.

1 3/4 cups flour
2 eggs
4 tablespoon butter, melted
1/2 cup sugar
1 lemon zest
Pinch salt
¼ cup dessert rum
1 tablespoon vinegar
confectioner sugar for dusting

Mix all the ingredients together and knead the resulting dough for about 10 minutes until is smooth and elastic.

Let it rest for 1 hour covered with plastic wrap. At this point you can roll out the dough with a rolling pin to a thickness of 0,3 cm (1/8in) but the easiest option is to use a pasta rolling machine, starting at the widest opening and progressively decreasing till opening 3, of 7, on a pasta roller.

With a knife or a pasta cutter, cut the stripes in rectangle shaped pieces 4 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide.

Heat abundant canola oil to 360 F. Fry the pieces a few at a time, till golden (it should take 3-5 min per piece, otherwise rise or reduce heat) .

Drain them in absorbent paper. Dust them with sugar. They're best eaten when still warm, as anything deep fried, but they keep fine for 1 day.

Happy Holidays with Sweets

2006-12-02T12:52:00.000-08:00

It has been a while since my last newsletter! I have been so busy teaching classes, traveling and writing my book that I didn’t have the chance to sit in front of my computer and write about sweets. Anyway, I didn’t want to end the year without wishing you Happy Holidays and sending you one of my favorite cookie recipes as a holiday gift: Chocolate Snow Cookies.

These are the best chocolate cookies I ever made, not only in flavor but also in presentation! With their contrasting black and white color from the chocolate and the powdered sugar, they will enhance any cookie tray. They require a little bit more work than other cookies, but I guarantee that it is totally wort it.

8 ounces milk chocolate
3 tablespoon butter
zest of 1 orange
1 ½ tablespoon brewed coffee
2 eggs at room temperature
¼ cup granulated sugar, plus more for coating the cookies
1 1/2 cup pecans toasted
½ cup flour
1 pinch salt
½ teaspoon baking powder
powdered sugar for coating the cookies

Ground the nuts in a food processor

Whisk the eggs with the sugar until the mixture is white and form a ribbon.

Melt the chocolate, the butter, the zests and the coffee in a bowl set over simmering water. Let it cool a little bit. Mix in the egg mixture.

The mixture will become thick as you stir it. Stir it just until combined.

Mix together the flour, salt, baking powder and ground nuts.

Stir this mixture into the chocolate batter.

Refrigerate the chocolate mixture until firm (around 1-2 hours). Preheat the oven to 350F.

Set two bowls, one with granulated sugar and the other one with powdered sugar. Roll the dough in 1-inch balls.

Roll them in the sugar to coat them, then roll them in the powdered sugar.

Place the cookies 1 inch apart on a baking pan lined with parchment paper.

Bake them for 15 minutes. They should still soft near the center but firm at the edges.

Let them cool before taking them from the pan.

Summer Grilling Desserts

2006-05-28T15:30:00.000-07:00

Summer means different things to different people. For some, it is the time of the year to enjoy any kind of outdoor activities; for others it is the only chance to travel and take a family vacation; but for Edgard, my husband, it is all about grilling. Not matter if it is raining, too cool or too hot outside; he takes advantage of every opportunity he has to relax and cook over coals.

I don’t blame him, there is something about grilling that brings out the best flavor and aromas in food and even the simplest meal turns into a casual celebration. But grilling is not just for meats, poultry or fish. Almost any kind of fruit, from berries to banana, can be turn into tempting desserts using this cooking technique. The hot grill caramelizes the sugar in the fruit bringing out its natural sweetness while intensifies its flavor.

Firmer fruits, like bananas, pineapples, apples, and pears are easier to grill because they can stand hot heat without falling apart. I generally, cut them in half, pit, core and grill them on medium-low heat for about 10-15 minutes. Oranges and other juicy fruits do best cut into thick slices and with the skin on. Softer fruits like nectarine, plums, apricots and other stoned fruits are more delicate and can turn easily to a mush if overcooked. I usually, cut them in half, pit, core and just heat them for about 3-5 minutes. Berries and small fruits can be heated on skewers or wrapped in foil for 5-8 minutes.

Whichever fruit you choose, pick the ones that are in season and feel firm to the touch. Wash and dry them with paper towel and brush them lightly with oil or melted butter to help prevent sticking. You can also marinate the fruit with balsamic vinegar, lemon, wine or a liquor of your preference and a little amount of sugar.

In order to get a flavorful crust and seal the juices inside the fruit, it is very important to preheat your grill to medium-low heat. If you are using a charcoal grill, you have to light up for 30-40 minutes before grilling. For gas grill, you will need 10-15 minutes to reach the desired temperature.

One of my favorite grilling recipes is Strawberries marinated in balsamic vinegar and brown sugar. The acidity of the balsamic vinegar with the sweetness of the brown sugar gives another dimension of flavor to the strawberries creating a delicate dessert that takes only few minutes to assemble. I like to serve it with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream or yoghurt.

Grill Balsamic Vinegar Strawberries

1 pound strawberries, hulled and halved
3 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoon brown sugar

Toss strawberries with balsamic vinegar, lemon zest and brown sugar.

Divide strawberries among foil squares. Bring the edges of foil together and scrunch to seal.

Grill over medium-low heat until warm (5-10 minutes)

Serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

2006-04-08T20:18:00.000-07:00

Colomba Pasquale
(Easter Dove Bread)

The Colomba Pasquale is the national Easter bread of Italy. It comes from the region of Lombardy but now is made and sold throughout the country. This fragrant bread is similar to the panettone in its delicate sweet flavor and soft texture, but is studded with orange peels and covered with icing and almonds. It has a dove shape precisely because Colomba means dove in Italian, the sign of the beginning of spring as well as the symbol of the Holy Spirit in Catholicism. As recently as 50 years ago, many Italians, especially from rural areas, couldn’t afford to have an oven in their home kitchen and people in the village would use the communal oven located at the center of the town to bake their holiday breads and cakes. My mother recalls these events very well. Every year, during Easter, she went with my grandmother to the communal oven located in Piazza Duca degli Abruzzi (now replaced by a building) carrying trays of cakes, cookies and risen breads dough. Over there, a long line of women and kids were waiting for they dough's to be baked. This was an opportunity to socialize and make friends. While they were waiting for their dough's to be ready, my mom played with her friends (teenagers at that time) and my grandmother socialized with other housewives. My mom misses the flavor an texture of the final product, impossible to recreate in her home oven in Pescara. On Easter day, some families carried those breads to church to have them blessed for later enjoyment at their Easter table.

There are still places in Italy where people still use the oven of the village to bake their goods, like the town of Casale Botindari in Sicily (see the last picture of this website)

Legend says Italian bakers created the Colomba Pasquale to celebrate two “heaven-sent” doves that descended on Milan after the defeat of the evil emperor, Frederick Barbarossa, in the 12th century. Since then, the Milanesi recall this event by eating breads in the shape of a dove.

The original recipe requires many fermentations and the use of “lievito naturale”, a kind of wild yeast trapped from the air that is kept for days, months or even years and is used as a leavening agent on breads. The best Colombas in Italy are produced with the “lievito naturale” of the family that have passed from generations to generations and is guarded as gold. However, for the delight of my family and students, this year I developed a recipe that is simpler than the original, but is great in flavor and doesn’t require lievito naturale. Traditionally, the dough is baked in a special paper mold that you can find at Sur La Table in Berkeley. You can also find the Colomba Pasquale in many Italian specialty stores (Market Hall, Draegers, Andronico’s and Whole Foods)

Ingredients

Biga
- 1 tablespoon yeast
- 1 cup water
- zests of 1 orange
- 1/2 cup flour

Dough
- 1/2 tablespoon yeast
- 1 cup milk
- 2 1/2 cups flour
- 1 tsp salt
- 8 oz butter (soften – not melted)
- 3 egg yolks
- 1 ¼ cup sugar
- 1/2 cup candied orange peel
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 2 tablespoons (1/4 ounce) orange zest
- 1/2 cup (2 1/2 ounces) candied orange peel

Topping
- 1 egg white
- 1/3 cup (1 1/4 ounces) almond flour (or finely ground almonds, blanched or unblanched)
- 1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) granulated sugar
- 2 tablespoons coarse sugar (pearl sugar or sparkling white sugar)
- 2 tablespoons sliced almonds

Procedure
For the Biga:
Dissolve yeast in warm water (110F) and let it rest for 5 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of sugar, the zest of an orange and ½ cup of the flour. Mix all the ingredients together and let it rest overnight (covered with plastic wrap) in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

For the Dough
The next day, dissolve the other yeast in warm milk (110F) and let it rest for 5 minutes. Add the biga, the flour and knead the dough for 5 minutes. Add the rest of the sugar and eggs and continue kneading until the dough is soft and very elastic (15 minutes). Add the soften butter at room temperature (NOT MELTED) little by little while kneading. Add the chocolate and the salt and continue kneading until the dough is soft, shiny and elastic (10 - 15 minutes). Add the orange zest and candied peel and mix until combined.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place it in a warm spot (85°F is perfect) to let the dough rise for 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. It should be doubled in size.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly greased work surface and deflate it by punching it down. Divide the dough in half, and form one half into a log about 12 inches long. Form the other half into a slightly shorter and fatter log. Place the longest log lengthwise on a parchment-lined baking sheet or then lay the shorter log across it, forming a cross. Cover it with lightly greased plastic wrap, and let it rest until double in size; this will take at least another 3 hours.

Just before the bread is ready to be baked, beat the egg white until it's foamy and whisk in the ground almonds and sugar.

Spread this almond mixture on the risen bread. Be careful, as the dough is delicate and could deflate. Sprinkle wit coarse sugar and sliced almonds.

Bake the bread in a preheated 350°F oven for 45 minutes, until lightly browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of a loaf reads 195°F. Remove the bread from the oven, and transfer it to a wire rack to cool.

Maria Teresa Capdevielle is a professional pastry chef that teaches baking & pastry in the SF Bay Area. http://www.mariateresaskitchen.com (925) 964-9343 tciccarini@yahoo.com